Ok...we've beaten back the weeds. Imagine a sweeping vista from the porch or deck, extending across a gentle slope...a virtual sea of warm-season color, and cold-season textures and shapes. One of the most stunning appears every spring in Dark Harbor (on Islesboro in Penobscot Bay). Ten acres (at least) of the densest planting of lupines I've ever seen! Later the scene evolves into marguerite daisies, then to a flood of cheerful brown-eyed-susans. And easy care to boot: an annual fall mowing to prevent takeovers by brambles and brush, and an occasional mowing of a meandering path through this ever-changing ocean of natural color makes it all happen year after year.

If a large tree rests at the side of your wildflower meadow, providing a little shade, all the better! Bend the path to pass beneath it, make a wide-spot and provide a bench, stump or large stone to just sit a spell and take in the beauty.

An exception to the no-fertilizer restriction would be in cases where soil has received unusual abuse by repeated fires, floods or depletion. In those all-to-often occurrences of previous soil mismanagement, the addition of some form of organic matter like farm manure or compost (not peat moss) would be beneficial and restore "life." At any rate, avoid using miracle-working plant foods.

Planting directly into untilled, heavily-grassed meadowland, or broadcasting wildflower seeds in the field will bring disappointment and frustration. It's much better to mow it close and till the clippings in to about four or five inches. A little gypsum and coarse organic matter will loosen clayey soil. I'd recommend waiting about two weeks after tilling - to allow weed seeds to germinate - then till again. Now you're ready to plant.

A tip: those incredibly expensive canned assortments of wildflower seeds are just not worth it! Most are more grass than anything else, plus seeds of species which are not hardy in our northern New England minus-20-degree winters. Some are highly invasive and pernicious.

Suitable seed is available locally from some nurseries and Johnny's. You'll find salespeople or phone reps very helpful while making your selection. Brace yourself, however, wildflower mixes, enough to cover a spot larger than the average back yard, can be quite pricey. And you'll want to look closely at the mix "formula" because some will likely contain unacceptable percentages of weed seeds and field grasses...especially bargain-priced types. LTBB.

After the second tilling, rake out the area to make it relatively smooth, and broadcast your seed as evenly as possible, working in two directions to reduce the likelihood of missed areas. Gently rake again to lightly cover seeds with soil and, if you can, pull a roller over the sown area to make certain the seeds are in close contact with the soil. Next, I'd recommend you apply a loose organic mulch, like straw, to protect germinating seeds and prevent them from washing away in a heavy rain. Don't use baled farm-hay as a mulch, or you'll end up with the hayfield you probably started with.

Finally, unless there's a decent rain cloud in sight, water it all in by sprinkling thoroughly, and maintain soil moisture for another two to three weeks by daily waterings. Once seedlings appear, water twice a week for about a month; then once a week for another two months. That should do the trick.

Since neither is practical, under the circumstances, we humans must "trick" them into thinking one or more of those pre-germination requirements have been fulfilled. Lupine seeds, for example need to be "scarified" (have their outer coating nicked or scratched) so moisture can enter. In addition to that, a good overnight soaking in water will set them up for signs of growth in about five to seven days. Actually, I'd rather germinate lupines indoors about a month or more before they're to be set outdoors. That way they aren't a convenient snack for the hoards of mice and birds which frequent most wild areas.

Other types of seeds must be chilled for x-number of days or weeks before they'll sprout. That's called stratification, and most suppliers of wildflower seed will either do that for you or advise you on just how long they're to be chilled. It's usually best to moisten seeds before chilling. Just remember that once a seed is moistened, the process of germination has begun; allowing it to dry out - even for as little as a day - will  very likely cause it to discontinue that process...and die.

Very fine seeds are nearly impossible to scatter evenly. If they're first mixed with very fine sand or something like cornmeal (sand will work best) you'll get much better distribution.

Storing seeds the right way  |  How long will seeds last in storage?

Some authorities advocate burning to remove annual growth. I don't. It's just too painful to see valuable - if not precious - organic matter go up in smoke and fly-ash that'll likely-as-not end up in the lake, bay or on someone's damp laundry. If you feel that a layer of ash on your natural wildflower meadow would be beneficial, scatter some wood ashes from yours or a neighbor's fireplace or furnace. Protecting what remains of precious organic matter is part of being a responsible steward of the Earth.

In addition to all these (and many more) don't forget various types of annual and perennial grasses. There are lots to choose from.

A neighbor of ours plants a little "secret garden" for her children every year. Made from a densely-planted circle of tall sunflowers and under-planted with soft grasses and bordering annuals, it's a perfect - and favored - hideout or place for private youthful games and youthful tea parties. A small gap is allowed in the circle for entry; sun filters through a veritable cloud of giant, golden petals atop tall, strong stems and huge deep green leaves; and all is crowned with the sound of hummingbirds, bees and, later in the season, seed-eating birds, all going about the daily business of survival. What wonderful lessons to be learned! Infinitely preferable to hour after hour, day after summer day parked in front of the TV or video game like little mindless automatons!

For us adults, principles of location, design, planting and maintenance of our secret garden are slightly more complex but none-the-less achievable and satisfying. Rather than list details and specifics, from here on, your own imagination will dictate exactly where your secret place will be and how it'll be planted and furnished.

Early morning sun is so-o-o-o welcome and refreshing, and most shady-garden plants relish the return of revitalizing warmth and light. Later in the day, when "Old Sol" is high in the western sky, more shade is appreciated by both plants and gardeners.

Tucked beneath a canopy of forest green, under-planted with mosses, ferns, tiny wildflowers, toads and toadstools, such a shady retreat is almost totally self-sustaining - once properly prepared and planted.

Depending on the type of plants you prefer in your secret garden, soil is either allowed to remain unamended, or modified to support a wider variety of non-forest types. Ferns, mosses, ladyslippers, wood violets and the like prefer humusy, fairly acidy soil and seem well adapted to dealing with tree root competition.

Cultivated annuals and perennials, on the other hand, normally require some "help" in dealing with woodland problems. Roots must be cut and removed; additional soil - high in organic matter - may need to be hauled in; extra nutritional elements may be required; soil pH (acidity/alkalinity) will doubtless need adjusting to more favorable levels; weeds - some of them highly invasive - may be a serious, time-consuming and recurring problem. Add the usual chores of dead-heading, pruning, staking, watering and relocating hoards of slugs and snails, and your quiet retreat may become a serious trial to be avoided.

Naturally, the culture of plants in shady locations comes with it's own set of sometimes difficult problems. Since the environment is usually acidic and moist, slugs and various rots and mildews can quickly take their toll. Soil in moist areas frequently compacts and becomes clogged with dense mats of tree roots. And, there's always the temptation to push or pull Nature in a direction she'd prefer not to travel. Fertilizer is rarely needed and, since moisture is usually inherent, watering is kept to a minimum.