Answers to your gardening questions

Article Archives 

Five-part article series on flower-drying starts here

Eight-part article series on vegetable gardening starts here

Asian Lily Beetles 

A new scourge in New England ornamental and veggie gardens.

Japanese Beetles 

They can be controlled...but not the way you think.

An effective Deer Fence!

Only three feet tall...and no deer has ever jumped over it!

 

Can this be true?

"Just rototill a patch of lawn for a new garden bed"
by Fred Davis, Hill Gardens, Palermo, Maine
(To view other articles, click Archives)

Bum Information Number ten: Oh, yes...this one runs rampant throughout gardening "expert" media. Unbelievable as it seems or sounds, people who're supposed to know better proclaim this insanity-destined-for-total-frustration-and-failure nonsense all across the land of TV and printed gardening journalism, and profit-motivated corporate advertising.

We're supposed to believe that all we have to do to have a beautiful addition to our gardens is, as printed above, just rototill a patch of lawn where you want the new garden bed, add a little peatmoss and some miracle-working chemical fertilizer and, presto!, our front yards will be the envy of all who walk or drive by. If you've fallen for that line of stuff and nonsense, please accept my deepest sympathy. Gardening, like life, is a learning process... but this lesson, nearly beats all.

What's a right way to begin a new garden bed in the middle of a lawn... or the middle of any patch of actively growing lawn-like plants? First, consider:

The vast majority of residential—and a great many public—lawns are little more than a well-seasoned combination of a small percentage of legitimate turf grass mixed with ample amounts of exquisitely invasive vacant-lot weeds with deep, re-sprouting roots and far-reaching under- and over-ground stolons (runners). Those roots and runners, when chopped into tiny pieces by tiller tines will, with unimaginable speed, produce hundreds (if not thousands) of new weeds with a dedicated goal and destiny of returning the would-be garden patch to "lawn". Add to that the presence of layers of very viable grass and weed seeds, and the misadventure escalates into a disaster.

So, the obvious solution—before anything else is done—is to first remove as many of those roots, runners and seeds as is humanly possible. That's done by scalping the marked-out plot with a mower set to its lowest cutting height and collecting everything possible in the grass catcher (think carefully about where you're planning to dump the collected chaff!).

Now, using a sharpened spade (a square-edged one is best), slice at least 2" of the surface of the now-scalped "lawn" and either toss it across the back fence or use it to fill in bare spots or low areas. Watch carefully for dandelion roots...and dig out as much of those as you can, leaving nothing behind. Also dispatch any grubs and wireworms (but not earthworms) that you find in the process.

Now go gas up the rototiller! And don't forget to add ample quantities of sterilized compost, some sand (if the soil is not clay), some lime if necessary, and whatever fertilizer you prefer.

Once the soil is totally rejuvenated and the ingredients thoroughly mixed in, install your plants. Finish it off with an attractive, weed-free, mulch of shredded bark or leaves, or fresh, correctly made compost.

I recommend reading: Soil PreparationDoing it Right the First Time!, and the Special Report on Composting, or Fred's book, Keys to the Garden Gate

Google

        
 
   Search the Web  Search Hill Gardens Site Only

   

Our Local Weather

Find your State and County Cooperative Extension Office Which Maine Hardiness Zone Do I Live In? (.pdf)

HomeGardening Article Archives    |   FAQ   |   Links   |    
 
Fast Composting Brochure  |  Fred's Online Gardening Book 

© 10/2007 Hill Gardens of Maine; 107 Route 3, Palermo, Maine 04354. All Rights Reserved. Updated: 08/07/11