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Answers to your gardening questions |
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Poinsettia
(Euphorbia pulcherrima)
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Welcome through Fred's Garden Gate! This time of the year I always get increased numbers of questions regarding the care and maintenance of this very popular seasonal plant that's a member of the Euphorbia family. Poinsettia (pronounced po-in-SET-ee-a) originated in Mexico where it can grow to as much as five feet tall. I've seen very large, bushy shrubs near the central to southern California coast almost that tall, completely covered with their distinctive bright red color. Commercial growers, anxious for a more acceptably-sized houseplant, have bred them down to the much more compact versions sold by the thousands in most nurseries and supermarkets starting about Thanksgiving time. Leaves are a very dark green pointed oval with noticeable veining. During very late fall the upper leaves, now called bracts, begin to change color, eventually turning their variety's color: pink, white, pink and white, yellow or the more traditional red. The plant's actual flowers, in all cases, are quite small, almost insignificant, spots of yellow at the center of each cluster of colorful bracts. Most people toss them out when the bracts fade and fall or the plant otherwise succumbs to one of several home environmental disasters. Healthy plants, however, can last for years if given proper care. Examples of frequently-asked questions: What kind of conditions do Poinsettias need or like? While actively growing or in bloom, they'll take ordinary room light or bright indirect light from a window and are fairly forgiving in that respect. They can be damaged by extremes in both temperature and humidity, however, and should be placed away from cold drafts or heat sources like registers or stoves. The trip home from the store is especially risky in the very cold weather during December. A sudden chill will discolor flowers and cause leaves to curl and wilt. Maintain the plant in average room temperature and humidity. How much water? Soil in the pot should be slightly moist, never drippy wet. Over-watering can cause discoloration of leaves and bracts and can quickly lead to rot. How about feeding? Feed every other week, while in active growth and bud, with a half-strength solution of a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer. Withhold feeding while plant is resting. What should be done after flowers go by? After all of the bracts have faded, give it a good, stiff pruning, cutting back to no more than six inches above the soil (four inches is considered better by some). Allow the soil to almost dry out and keep it in bright light and at room temperature for four or five weeks. Then give it a drenching shot of regular strength liquid fertilizer and jump back! Do I need to re-pot it? Poinsettias look and do their best when just on the edge of being root bound. When necessary, use the next size larger clay pot and light soil that drains quickly. Do not use a soil mix that contains ground bark or wood chips, or a white or clear container. What about bugs? Whiteflies can be a serious problem and difficult to control, so look closely at the undersides of leaves before you buy. One whitefly in the home during winter is too many because they multiply so fast. Nicotine or Safer's soap sprays work fairly well. How can I make it bloom during December? If left alone, poinsettias bloom in early spring. You can trick it into blossom by putting it into a black plastic bag or dark closet for exactly 14 hours a day - from early evening to the next morning - beginning the last week of September. After eight weeks of that treatment put it out in bright light at room temperature. Keep it moist but don't feed until bracts actually form and show color. Are the flowers edible? It's difficult to imagine anyone or any animal eating poinsettia because of its sticky, milky sap and an unpleasant taste. Strictly speaking, however, they are not poisonous...but I'm sure not going to eat any! Can I make cuttings? Easily from the fresh new stems that are pruned away to "shape" the plant in early summer. Insert a four inch section into half peat/half clean, sharp sand after dipping the cut end in very cold water to stop the flow of sap. Cover with a baggie and give it bright light (but not full sun!) and room temperature until there are signs of new growth. Then pot into four-inch pots and enjoy. |
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