"Hill Gardens of Maine - Daylily Proliferations — Making More of a Good Thing."

Daylily Proliferations — Making More of a Good Thing

       Once in a while, usually near the end of the season (at least in our northern-tier growing area), a small plantlet — or cluster of plantlets — will develop at a bract along the scapes of mature daylily plants. Remarkably, the proliferation may actually produce a flower scape of its own! I never allow those usually pitiful blooms to remain...seems to me that such a tiny plant shouldn't have to carry that kind of physiological "load".

    If a prolif is allowed to remain until it reaches maximum size on that flower stem, roots will eventually develop and, when the stem turns brown (indicating that no additional nutrition from the scape will be forthcoming), it can be removed and planted. Proliferations are exact duplicates of the parent plant — a
clone, if you prefer. Here's how it's done:

    First, don't be too hasty! If at all possible, leave proliferations on the scape until they have developed recognizable roots. On some, like those pictured above, multiple prolifs develop. I like to remove any that appear small or distorted, and allow only a vigorous one or two to continue development. Yes, the weaker ones will likely become plants, too, but the goal should be first-rate, strong, and healthy...not "I've got to try to rescue this poor little gasping weakling."

    Next — after your prolif has developed about as far as is practical — it should be removed from the plant, with about 4" of strong stem remaining below its connection. Clean it up a bit, being careful not to damage any roots, and trim the leaves back to about half their length.

    You can either plant it in a container filled with clean garden soil or any commercial soilless mix, or insert it into a prepared spot near the parent plant. It might help to make the lower cut on a sharp angle so it'll be easier to press into the soil. Insert up to the point where the roots are about a half inch below the surface. Be sure to label each variety, particularly if you will be sharing them with gardening friends...especially if you're planning on selling or trading them later.

    You'll want to carefully observe and maintain soil moisture — they won't like being allowed to dry out! Continue watering until frost sends your garden to its winter rest. This late in the season — especially in northern-tier gardens — fertilizer is neither needed nor indicated. Late-season feeding will stimulate tender new growth that may have a tough time making it through winter. Once the ground has developed a crust of frost, apply a loose and airy two- or three-inch mulch of something like pine needles over these fragile new babies. A better plan would be to grow them out in a protected location like a coldframe.

    When spring arrives, remove the mulch and, as vigorous new growth begins, apply and cultivate in about an ounce of any balanced, granular fertilizer...I use 10-10-10. A second application of the same fertilizer during mid-summer (July 4th in our Maine location) will give them the refreshing boost they need as earlier applications are exhausted or leached away. Remember that daylilies look and perform their best in a soil whose pH is maintained somewhere between slightly acidic (6.5) to neutral (7.0). Ground limestone is the least expensive of consumer soil sweeteners. A new and reportedly highly effective sweetening product utilizing recycled ash is now being marketed in the Northeast under the name of "Heart & Soil" and should be showing up in nurseries and garden centers soon. For more information, visit: http://www.heartnsoil.com/.

    Flowers are possible during its first full season in the garden...but don't count on it.

     To learn more about soil pH and its relationship to nutrient availability and up-take, refer to the archived article: Soil pH...Neglect it and ensure almost certain failure!, or for a complete discussion of the subject, read Chapter 2 of Fred's book, Keys To The Garden Gate.

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